![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHyV5DylcoJzfAXOIBBT0rBCd6xZeJSDJNpapEnLi-mIiSX7tAl43edw9WCmQS8O-aZ2hW3vHAF5rA7utoNU04cNkxZFcwkmS37_RBQjkaWaRNVytX3JwEY3zEzvLBG-AeYLGEcEFuNU0/s400/dap1.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9EQKsqMVrJzt20c_SZrB32n1L6fBSTfI8wP6xI_6ahErsVadegzl1QDmjbMLkIz9JQXeP7HCLfE9Pf0s9UNSOXs9ZUzF8By1bwpS5QqJCZUmp43Ij-GkGQf_VjMD3qKcSHb6AtlF5LP0/s400/dap2.jpg)
I dry my larger domed pieces on a wooden ball, but I leave smaller pieces flat until after they're fired. I find it easier to dome them (or "dap" them) once they are metal. Instead of using a dapping block (a wooden or metal block with domed recesses) I've found that a wooden dapping tool and a rubber block get the job done with no marks on the piece and the embossed image on the front unharmed. I put the piece face down on the rubber block, and tap at it with a hammer and my dapping tool until it's domed. Fine silver right out of the kiln is very soft, so it's very easy. I did buy the cheap steel dapping set at Harbor Freight because I always wanted one, but I rarely use it. Maybe once I get back into some traditional fabricating, but for now I love my wood and rubber tools!